Wess.pizza

Open all night

Italian-American bakeries, east coast

Sicilian

American square, Detroit's ancestor

Thick, square, and proofed in the pan

Scale this formula

The bakery square: thicker and airier than grandma, proofed in the pan until it is a bread dough, and sauced heavily. Descended from sfincione by way of every Italian bakery that sold slices at the counter.

Method

  1. Mix and knead to a soft, slack dough.
  2. Bulk until doubled, then press into a well-oiled pan in two stages with a rest between.
  3. Proof in the pan until it wobbles and a poke fills back slowly. Underproofing here gives you a dense brick.
  4. Sauce right up to the edges, cheese, then bake.
  5. Cut into squares in the pan, but lift the pieces out to cool or the bottoms soften.

Fermentation

StageTimeTemperatureNotes
Bulk 2 h 22°C / 72°F
Pan proof 3 h 23°C / 73°F Until it is domed and full of bubbles.

Times are a guide. How to read the dough instead of the clock →

The bake

Oven245°C473°F
Time20-25 minutes

Surface. Oiled steel pan, lower rack

Longer and cooler than a round pie. The crumb needs the time.

On top

Sauce
Cooked tomato with oregano and garlic, thick enough to sit on top.
Cheese
Mozzarella, sometimes with grated pecorino under the sauce.
Toppings
Onion, pepper, sausage. It carries weight better than any round pizza here.

You got it right when An open, bready crumb an inch tall with a fried, golden bottom.