Wess.pizza

Open all night

New York City · 1905

New York

Foldable, greasy, sold by the slice

Scale this formula

The workhorse. Bread flour for chew, a little oil and sugar so it browns and stays pliable in a 550F deck oven, and a long cold ferment for flavour the short list of ingredients cannot supply. Built to be reheated and folded lengthwise.

Method

  1. Mix everything except the oil to a shaggy dough, rest 20 minutes, then add the oil and knead until smooth and slightly tacky, 8-10 minutes.
  2. Bulk one hour, then divide and ball tightly.
  3. Oil the tops, box them with space between, and refrigerate one to three days.
  4. Pull the balls two hours before baking and keep them covered.
  5. Open on a floured bench: press the centre out, then knuckle-stretch on the backs of your hands, leaving a 1.5 cm rim.
  6. Dress cold and thin. Too much sauce is the number one reason a home NY pie goes soggy.
  7. Launch and rotate halfway.

Fermentation

StageTimeTemperatureNotes
Bulk 1 h 22°C / 72°F
Cold ferment (balled) 48 h 4°C / 39°F 24 hours is fine, 72 is better.
Warm up 2 h 22°C / 72°F Non-negotiable. Cold dough will not open.

Times are a guide. How to read the dough instead of the clock →

The bake

Oven290°C554°F
Time8-12 minutes

Surface. Steel or a thick stone, second-from-top rack

Preheat a full hour. If the top sets before the bottom colours, move the pie down or preheat longer. A little sugar in the dough is what gets you colour in a domestic oven that cannot reach deck temperatures.

On top

Sauce
Uncooked crushed tomato, salt, a pinch of oregano and garlic powder. It cooks on the pie.
Cheese
Low moisture whole milk mozzarella, shredded, applied edge to edge.
Toppings
Pepperoni, sausage, mushroom. Restraint keeps the slice foldable.

You got it right when The fold test: pick up a slice by the crust and it should droop, then hold.