Wess.pizza

Open all night

New Haven, Connecticut · 1925

New Haven apizza

Ah-beetz

Coal fired, charred, clams optional

Scale this formula

Oblong, thin, aggressively charred, and traditionally baked in a coal-fired oven at temperatures that would ruin a softer dough. Long cold ferment, no sugar, and the char is not a mistake, it is the seasoning.

Method

  1. Mix to a moderately wet dough, knead to a strong gluten, and cold ferment two to three days.
  2. Warm the balls fully, then stretch into a rough oblong. Nobody in New Haven is aiming for a circle.
  3. For a plain tomato pie: sauce, oregano, pecorino, oil. No mozzarella at all.
  4. For a white clam: oil, garlic, chopped clams with their juice, oregano, pecorino.
  5. Bake as hot as you can, and let it take real colour before you pull it.

Fermentation

StageTimeTemperatureNotes
Bulk 1 h 22°C / 72°F
Cold ferment 60 h 4°C / 39°F 48 to 72 hours. This style wants the long end.
Warm up 3 h 22°C / 72°F

Times are a guide. How to read the dough instead of the clock →

The bake

Oven340°C644°F
Time5-7 minutes

Surface. Coal or wood oven, or steel plus broiler at home

Aim past comfortable. Blistered black spots on the rim and underside are the style, not a ruined pie.

On top

Sauce
Crushed plum tomato, oregano, garlic, oil. Grated pecorino instead of mozzarella on a tomato pie.
Cheese
Mozzarella is an extra you order, not a default.
Toppings
Clams, bacon, or nothing.

You got it right when Char you can taste, a thin chewy middle, and no cheese hiding it.